Friday, August 10, 2012

Eastern Passage, Nova Scotia

EcoYogini shares a well kept local secret near Halifax, Nova Scotia....

Growing up on the ocean has it's effects on you. I do believe particularly, that growing up on the Atlantic Ocean has a different result than the Pacific. Having been to the west coast, and touched the Pacific, I was surprised how I missed the raw, clean power and Strength that is such an integral part of the Atlantic Ocean. The 'Ocean'ness of the Pacific seemed to be missing.

It's possible that it's where I was (Vancouver vs some other part of the west coast). But I don't think I could live without the Atlantic Ocean. In fact I know lakes just don't cut it- I tried living away for 10 years near rivers and lakes with similar results. My ocean has fog, rocky beaches and powerful salty cold waves.

I also strongly believe that even living in a coastal city, it's not the same as growing up connected to the ocean shore. Although you can never forget where the ocean is from Halifax (the noisy seagulls reminded us just today while we were in our parking lot), just the fact of being surrounded by so much 'city' is a kind of separation from Nature. Even the green spaces, Point Pleasant and the Public Gardens are filled with sounds of city traffic and container ships.

Once I knew what chemicals were doing to my precious and essential ocean, to my family's livelihood (daughter of a lobster fisherman) how could I continue to pollute?

Thankfully, Halifax has a hidden gem just 30minutes outside of the city- Eastern Passage. In case any of you dear readers wander out in this small part of Maritime Canada, this is a cute, easy to reach and relatively quiet area to get to, just across the Harbour from Halifax city proper. :)

(Fisherman's Cove has a small, sandy beach that's protected by Parks Canada. The water is brackish- on the left of the seagrass is the ocean- and the water is extremely warm and beautiful)

(wild flowers and roses grow along the boardwalk here, the smell is salty-sweet)

(the first part of the board walk opens directly onto the wide Atlantic. Virtually no traffic, boats or tourists to be seen)

(My favourite kind of beach- smooth beautifully worn gray stones.)

(there are small cute tourist-y shops and restaurants next to the warf. You can see the colourfully painted ones to the far right)

(Interestingly, to get to Eastern Passage you need to drive through the refinery area, which is rumoured to be closing March 2013. There are dozens of these silos that growing up I thought were filled with ice cream)

(Since my husband grew up near Saint John, New Brunswick where they have an even larger refinery, he refers to these as 'Gotham Cities'. From the Halifax Harbourfront you can see this huge monstrosity clear as day- the refinery is a short drive from downtown Dartmouth)


Diane said...

Je suis d'accord!

Having descended from a long line of people on both sides of the Atlantic (PEI father, Irish mother) I, too, am definitely an East Coaster. I have visited the Pacific Coast from BC to Mexico but it just wasn't the same.

I wonder what the warmer water temperatures will do to the fishery. I find that the colder the water, the sweeter the lobster . . . they say that the best Canadian lobster comes from Newfoundland. Water temperature on PEI yesterday was 23C !!

Eco Yogini said...

@Diane: ahhh it's already affecting lobsters- even though warmer waters mean that they'll move more (in the traps) it also means that it takes longer for their shells to harden and so soft shelled lobsters are more vulnerable to shipping etc. (dad fishes from Nov-May).

I would have to argue that the best canadian lobster comes from district 34 in Nova Scotia :) haha, but then i may be biased :)

Amber Strocel said...

After reading this post, as a life long West Coaster, I had to reply with my latest installment here on the Green Phone Booth. ;)

Anonymous said...

These pictures are stunning. I have long dreamed of visiting the Atlantic coast - there such a sense of romanticism about it in American history. I'll have to be sure to visit it from the vantage point of Nova Scotia, though, so I can meet up with you and Andrew! :)

I know what you mean about the power an ocean has on you. I didn't even grow up ON the coast - just near it. We didn't even go to the beach very often. Yet, I find I cannot stand to be too far away from the Pacific. I loved living in New Mexico, but not sure I could do it for more than a few years at a time - I always felt so land-locked and too far from my ocean.

Here in Central Oregon, I'm still pretty far - over 100 miles - but it's near enough to satisfy my Pacific roots. It's fascinating how land can infuse us, isn't it??

Anonymous said...

I meant "nature" not "land" - cuz obviously, we're talking about oceans here! LOL.


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